Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Fruit in City Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds form.

It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated four dozen established plants heavy with plump purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of the city downtown.

"I've noticed people hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who make wine from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in private yards and allotments across the city. The project is sufficiently underground to possess an official name yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

City Wine Gardens Across the Globe

So far, the grower's allotment is the sole location registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and more than 3,000 vines with views of and inside the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain greener and more diverse. They preserve open space from development by creating permanent, productive agricultural units within cities," explains the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a product of the earth the vines grow in, the vagaries of the weather and the people who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Back in the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain arrives, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he says, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Group Efforts Throughout the City

The other members of the group are additionally making the most of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. The scent is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of fruit slung over her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the vineyard when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they continue producing from the soil."

Terraced Vineyards and Traditional Winemaking

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established more than 150 vines situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can actually create quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very fashionable, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing wine."

"When I tread the fruit, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the liquid," says Scofield, ankle deep in a container of small branches, seeds and red liquid. "That's how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the natural cultures and then add a commercially produced yeast."

Difficult Environments and Inventive Approaches

In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who worked at the local university developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a difficult task to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."

"I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the only problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a fence on

Heather Morris
Heather Morris

Elara is a historian and writer passionate about uncovering the stories behind ancient civilizations and their legacies.

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